In summer of 1936, father ordered the family to move from the country to Guangzhou. That move was a gigantic forward step for us. It changed our whole life and had an enormous influence in our future. Suddenly we became "civilized."
City life was sharply different from country life. In Guangzhou, people spoke a different dialect. All of our neighbors were no longer our relatives or clan. They were merely friends. Chickens and hogs and oxen were no longer in sight. For the first time in our lives, we saw electric lightbulbs, movies, automobiles, railroad trains, steam boats, piano. for the first time in our lives, we used indoor plumbing. We no longer had to go outdoors to carry water from the river or the well. We no longer had to go outdoors for toilet. In the city, clothing, food, house and means of transportation were all different from the country.
Clothing
In the country, everybody wore dark-colored pajama-like clothes, with no underpants and no pocket on the pants. Girls were not supposed to cut their hair short. All unmarried girls braided their hair in a long pigtail. All married women were supposed to make a hair bun on the back of the head. All grown-up females were not supposed to expose their faces in public. They were supposed to wear a large straw hat to cover up. Most people didn't wear shoes, except in cold winter or if they were wealthy folks.
In the city, we wore white shirts and pants, with underpants. We wore tennis shoes (rubber shoes). Girls wore chi-pao (cheung-sam). Most females cut their hair short, no more long piggy-tail and no bun. Most clothes had to be starched and ironed. Later we wore leather shoes which had to be shined.
Food
In the country, the cooking, pastries, goodies, and table manners were quite plain and simple. In the city, we used gravy almost routinely. Pastries and goodies were plentiful in quantity and variety. Won ton and noodles were daily intake, no longer just a treat. For the first time in our lives, we tasted all sorts of bread and cakes, western-style. Almond cookies, coconut candies, and all sorts of goodies were readily available.
We also adapted the table manners. We "set" the table before we ate.
In the country, we ate two meals a day. Both meals were almost identical. In the city, we ate three meals a day, breakfast, lunch and supper, all different. We no longer had to eat rice in every meal. We didn't have to cook everything, either. Peddlers' shops and restaurants were all over the place. All sorts of delicious foods were readily available and affordable.
Housing
We lived at No. 20, Ngar-Yiu Rear Street, tung Shan District, Guangzhou, ground floor, a rented small apartment within a two-story duplex. There was a living room, kitchen and a bathroom. the three bedrooms were partitioned with wood panels.
We had windows in every room. That was modern. We had one electric light bulb hanging down from the ceiling in every room. That was extravagance. We even had a live-in maid. The meals were cooked in the kitchen, then carried in a "tray" to the dining table in the living room. Laundry was done in the bathroom and dried on the bamboo bars hanging in front of the house. Mother and sister slept in the front bedroom, brother and I in the middle, and the maid used the rear bedroom for sleeping and ironing clothes.
Transportation
In the country, we had to walk to wherever we wanted to go. In the city, for the first time in our lives, we saw and used rickshaw, bus and bicycle. Bicycles could be rented for 5-10 cents an hour. We quickly became expert in bicycling. When the bicycle was too high to mount, we would stick the right foot through the middle to reach the pedals, and rode it sideways.
The Neighborhood
Tung Shan means East Hill. It was a relatively new development of Guangzhou, mostly by Toishanese. Therefore, our neighborhood was full of our native people who spoke our native dialect. It was a friendly and nice neighborhood. School and shopping were within walking distance. My sister went to Kwong Tung Elementary School, within sight. I went to Pui Ching School, about 15 minutes walking distance. Brother went to Baat-Kwei Middle School, in town, he had to ride a bus or bicycle.
The shopping area was at Tung Shan Main Street. At the end of the street, there was a Tung Shan Park. For the first time in our lives, we saw a park and learned what a park was. We saw a live elephant there.
The Town
Guangzhou was not only the provincial capital of Guangdong, but also the cultural, political and economic center of Southern China. It was a very busy and thriving city. There were public libraries, bookstores, etc. The learning opportunities were unlimited. There were all sorts of shops. One whole block of shops specialized in ivory. One whole block was selling coffins only. One whole block was designated to sell silk and cloth. Another block was lined with won ton shops. It was fascinating.
Police were everywhere, at least one on each block. In town, a police officer stood at the center of an intersection to direct traffic (no traffic light). In the neighborhood, the police had a notebook in his pocket, recording the names of every household, and the visitors to that household. They knew us well, and we knew them well, too, and were very friendly with them. We saluted to each other when we were in boy scout uniform. One time someone stole our laundry. The police returned it to us before we knew it.
In the summer of 1937, at the end of the fiscal school year, we moved to a new house we had just bought. It was a row house, concrete, two-story, at No. 8 of 8, New South Street, Tung Wah Tung Road, about 45 minutes from Pui Ching School. We did not live there long. On July 7, 1937, Japan invaded China, and we had to evacuate from Guangzhou.
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